Hemming is just as important as other seam finishes. Even though there are various styles and techniques used by sewists to achieve neat professional hem finishes, the focus of today’s article is to teach the fundamentals of hemming to the ones that are new to sewing.

So, in this comprehensive article, we will explore three beginner-friendly hemming techniques with step-by-step instructions, how to choose the right hem, and many tips on how to sew the perfect hems on your garments.

Guide to Hemming

What is hem allowance?

Hem allowance is not the same as the seam allowance, so it’s quite important to define the difference between the two.

Hem allowance is the width between the hemline and the fabric hem edge. The hem allowance is folded on the wrong side of the fabric, and depending on the garment type, it can be from ¼ up to 2 inches (0.5 to 5 cm). The hem allowance creates a clean and neat finish for the garment hemline.

On the other hand, the seam allowance is defined as the space/area between the seam line (stitching line) and the raw edges of the fabric. The seam allowance is what keeps clothes together, and the amount depends on the garment type, fabric, and seam finish.

How much hem allowance is enough? 

The hem allowance width is typically determined based on the garment design and fabric type. For lightweight fabrics commonly used in shirts and summer dresses, a smaller hem allowance is required to minimize unnecessary bulk.

For thicker fabrics on the other side, a larger seam allowance is required to provide structure and stability to the hemline.

Three types of hems for sewing beginners

Double fold hem: The double fold hem requires folding the fabric up twice on the wrong side, pressing the first and second time separately to achieve a neat and free fabric raw edge finish. The double fold is secured with a machine topstitch close to the folded fabric edge.

Double-fold hems are widely used in everyday casual garments such as dresses, denim, bottoms, and activewear.

Hemming a double folded hem

1. Turn your fabric on the wrong side and mark the hem allowance.
2. Press the fabric raw edge on the wrong side of the fabric up by 1 cm (3/8”) all around the hem.
3. Press up again all around by 2 cm (3/4”). Pin in place or hand baste.
4. Stitch all around the folded edge (3mm or 1/8“from the edge).
5. Give the finished hem a final press.

 TIP: There isn’t really a rule when it comes to how to divide the hem allowance. For example, the first fold can be 1 cm and the second fold 2 cm. But it can also be equal. Sewists prefer to fold equally for narrow double-fold hems and not equally for wider hems to avoid a thicker hem.

Zig-zag hem: The zigzag stitch is often used for hemming stretch fabrics since it offers flexibility, which allows the hem to stretch without breaking the thread. On the other hand, it’s also used to finish a one-fold hem where the fabric's raw edges are first zigzagged, and then the hem is folded and pressed. The fold is secured with a stitch line close to the zigzagged edge.

How to sew a zigzag hem

1. Set your machine at a zigzag stitch setting. Apply a zigzag stitch at about 0.5- 1 cm (1/4- 3/8”) away from the raw edge and press.  
2. Trim the raw edge excess fabric close to the zigzag stitch while being careful not to cut the stitches.
3. From the zigzagged fabric raw edge, mark the hem allowance using a sewing gauge.
4. Fold the fabric on the wrong side (for example, if the hem allowance is 1.5 cm (5/8"), fold 1.5 cm (5/8") all around the hem and press).
5. Pin the hem and secure with a straight stitch just below the zigzag stitch.
6. Give the  hem a final press.

This hem finish is quite beginner-friendly and quick. It’s recommended if you've just started to sew, and it can be applied to various home and craft projects.

On the other hand, it’s not very recommended to be used on garments where the hem is visible on the right side of the fabric or if the garment fabric unravels easily. 

Rolled hem: The rolled hem is a narrow hem and is ideal for lightweight fabrics such as organza, chiffon, or other similar fabrics. It’s generally used on curved hemlines and creates a thin and delicate finish on blouses, bias-cut skirts, and scarves.

The rolled hem is usually sewn with a special rolled hem foot, but a standard presser foot does the job just the same.

1. Using a straight stitch, sew a 0.6 cm (1/4") stitch line away from the raw edge all around the hem line.
2. Fold the hem along the stitching line towards the wrong side of the fabric and press.
3. Stitch the second line as close as possible to the first one.
4. Trim the excess hem raw edges as close to the line of sewing as possible but not through it.
5. Fold the hemline just enough to enclose the raw edge. Press carefully and secure with pins in place.
6. Stitch the folded edge down, stitching along the center of the folded edge. The finished hem is usually narrow from 0.3 to 0.5 cm (1/8-1/4 ").

How to choose the right hem for your garment?

Fabric type and weight

Among many considerations when choosing the right hem for your garment, two of the most important are fabric type and weight.

Lightweight fabrics require gentle handling and a thin thread to prevent bulk. They're more delicate, so they usually require thinner threads and narrower hems. On the other hand, heavyweight fabrics usually need stronger threads, longer stitch lengths, and also a type of hem that does not create bulky hems. At the same time, tiny hems do not work well on heavyweight fabrics. 

Another consideration is fabric type. For example, for stretch fabrics, stretch stitches are used, such as the zigzag stitch, serger, twin needle, and coverstitch. These types of stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread or causing thread tension issues.

Garment use

The type of hem is selected based on whether the garment is intended for formal or everyday wear. Everyday clothing typically features a straightforward machine straight hem finish, but formal wear for men and women can also include rolled, blind, and hand-stitch hems. These clothes have a refined, elegant appearance thanks to the minimal hidden hems.

Garment style 

The overall style of the garment most of the time impacts the hem choice, and depending on the use, the hem finish can be a double hem but also an invisible hem if it’s formal attire.

Casual garments such as jeans, shirts, and t-shirts have double hem. These hems are appropriate for the fabric and take less time to sew. Formal garments such as gowns, blouses, and tailored suits avoid visible stitches and opt usually for invisible hems.

Tools and skill level

Most of the garments can be hemmed by hand with techniques such as the whip stitch, slip stitch, and catch stitch. These types of hems result in a very neat and discreet hem finish, and the only tools you need are a needle and thread.

On the other hand, hem finishes by sewing machine may require several special feet or at the very least an overcast stitch.

This is why it’s important to choose hem finishes in line with the tools available to you while also taking into consideration your skill level.

Time

Hemming can be quite time-consuming, especially when working with complicated and fuller garments. This is why it’s very important to set expectations straight and know that a hand-stitched hem can take you hours to days, and on the other hand, you can finish a hem with a sewing machine in minutes.

Hemming jeans

Fabric weight, sewing needle, and heavy-duty thread are the key tools to ensuring smooth and durable jean hems.

Our recommendation is to choose first a jean sewing needle depending on the fabric weight. Jean needles have an extra-sharp tip for penetrating the thick fabric and have a bigger eye to accommodate thicker threads.

On the other hand, the thread plays the same importance since a weak thread will result in broken stitches sooner or later, but a good topstitching thread or jean thread will keep for a very long time. 

Hemming formal attire

Hemming formal gowns and attire requires attention to detail and high sewing skills in several techniques to achieve a polished and elegant finish.

Since formal gowns are made from delicate fabrics such as satins, silks, and lace, the chosen hem should be invisible on the right side to ensure garment elegance.

At the same time, hemming these types of garments requires special threads and delicate needles that make the process more expensive but also time-consuming since several gown hems are finished by hand. Some of the most common hemming techniques specifically suited for formal gowns include blind hem, horsehair hem, rolled hem, faced hem, and baby hem.

Tips

• Using the tool of your choice (a ruler or a sewing gauge), always be sure to mark the hem allowance correctly. Use a sewing gauge to measure your hem allowance as it is the most accurate.
• Depending on the fabric choice, keep in mind to choose the right thread and needle size. If all three are in line, then the strength will be impeccable.
• As with any other sewing technique, pressing is a must, and in order to get a neat finish, press your seams and hems after every step.
• Puckering may happen while sewing hems, so it’s advised to loosen thread tension to achieve a balanced stitch, and in some cases, needle change may help too.

Final thoughts

Hemming is a crucial finishing step that elevates the look and durability of a garment. As we laid out above, different garments call for different hems, and choosing and sewing one might seem challenging. But as long as you consider factors such as fabric type and weight, garment use and style, and the tools you have available, then the choice gets much easier.

Thanks for joining us to review our Guide to Sewing Pockets or our Beginner Guide on How to Sew Curves. . 

Now start practicing your hemming! Also - stay connected by following Peek-a-Boo Pattern Shop on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, and signing up for our email Newsletter to get more wonderful ideas for sewing projects. Happy sewing!