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How to Sew an Inseam Pocket | Add to Any Pattern

How to Sew an Inseam Pocket | Add to Any Pattern


An inseam pocket – as the name says – is a pocket in the seam of your garment and are very easy to add. A while ago, I made a tutorial on how to add pockets to pants or skirts. However, sometimes you don’t want your pockets to be visible, or that way of constructing doesn’t work well for the pattern because it is gathered or constructed in a different way. This might be the solution!

What is an Inseam Pocket?

An inseam pocket is a type of pocket that is sewn into the seam of a garment, usually along the side seam or the inner leg seam of pants or skirts. It is called an "inseam" pocket because it is hidden within the seam itself, making it less visible from the outside. Inseam pockets are typically small and shallow, designed to hold small items such as keys, coins, or a phone. They are considered more discreet than other types of pockets, as they do not disrupt the silhouette of the garment. They can be found in a variety of clothing items and are valued for their functionality and minimalistic design.

Instructions to Add an Inseam Pocket

Making Your Template

First of all, you need a pocket pattern piece. You can download my free pocket pattern for size 2y, 6y and 10y here, it may be a good idea to just draw your desired pocket as well. Make sure you make the pockets large enough to put a hand in, have a straight side where the “entrance” will be and add 3/8 inch seam allowance (or whichever seam allowance your pattern uses) all around. This seam allowance is already included in my template. Remember that you'll need the fabric and pattern for both a front piece and back piece.

How to add inseam pockets_ A tutorial by Pienkel for Peek-a-Boo Pages 1

I used Amy’s free skirt tutorial for this example, it’s perfect for some fast skirts and adding pockets makes it even more perfect for my girls! The only thing you need to do is cut your one skirt piece in two, to create two side seams of course…

Choosing the Fabric

It doesn't take much fabric for inseam pockets - you can use a fun contrasting fabric and can probably find enough scrap fabric to get the job done.

For two pockets, cut four pocket pieces from your main fabric. Make sure you cut two as is and two mirrored, so you end up with two pairs, not with four the same. Even though you don’t really see the pockets, it would be nice for them to be pretty, not half of them with the wrong side of the fabric visible, right?

Finish the edges and stitching of the pocket pieces and your side seams with a serger or a zig zag stitch.

How to add inseam pockets_ A tutorial by Pienkel for Peek-a-Boo Pages 6

Pocket Placement

Place one pocket piece on top of the leg or skirt panel you want the pocket to be in. Align the straight edge of the pocket with the side seam and put the right sides together. Make sure you don’t place the top of the pocket too high, often there is a seam allowance or an allowance for a waistband included. So, measure where your seam or waist band will end and place the pocket a bit below that.

How to add inseam pockets_ A tutorial by Pienkel for Peek-a-Boo Pages 2

Now stitch the pocket to the main piece, using a 1/4″ seam allowance (or at least 1/8″ less seam allowance than included in the side seams,; your pocket will be too visible).

How to add inseam pockets_ A tutorial by Pienkel for Peek-a-Boo Pages 3

Fold the pocket piece away from the main piece, press and topstitch the pocket piece onto the seam allowance of the main piece.

Repeat this procedure for the other three pocket pieces.

How to add inseam pockets_ A tutorial by Pienkel for Peek-a-Boo Pages 4

Sewing the Pocket / Pocket Opening

When it’s time to sew the side seams, just place the main pieces and pockets on top of each other, right sides together and stitch the side seams in one seam, so that is a piece side seam, the outer edges of the pockets and the remaining side seam. Continue sewing your garment as usual and enjoy! Or at least, let your kids enjoy them, I can’t say that finding all kind of weird and often sticky or muddy treasures in pockets is quite a joy for me… However, happy kids are, so I will keep on sewing pockets! Are your kids addicted to pockets as well? What’s the weirdest hidden treasure you’ve found in your laundry? Mine are mostly sticks and snails… I’d love to hear yours in the comments!

How to add inseam pockets_ A tutorial by Pienkel for Peek-a-Boo Pages 5

What are the benefits of having an inseam pocket in clothing?

Inseam pockets are not only functional but also add a stylish and convenient element to clothing. They provide a discreet place to store small items like keys or a phone, without disrupting the clean lines of the garment. Plus, they make it easier to keep your hands free while on the go.

It's time to sew your own pockets! Adding an inseam pocket to a sewing pattern is a simple and practical way to enhance your garment. By following the steps outlined in this blog, you can easily customize your clothing with this convenient storage solution. Whether you're sewing pants, skirts, or dresses, an inseam pocket adds functionality and style to your creations. So why wait? Grab your sewing machine and start incorporating inseam pockets into your next project for a professional and functional finish. After you've mastered this, then you can check out our tutorial for patch pockets too.

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inseam pocket

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